Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
